THE PALO DURO CANYON TRAIL RACE 2002--A TALE OF TWO RACES

It was the best of races; it was the worst of races.....

The PD 50 in Canyon, Texas was a tale of (at least) two races. There was a large group of Austin/HCTR runners who made the long trek north for one of the most beautiful ultra runs in the state of Texas. Dubbed the "Texas Grand Canyon", Palo Duro Canyon is the second largest canyon in the U.S. Known for its unpredictable and changeable weather, this year's version drew a record 199 registrants. The 2002 version lived up to its deserved reputation for beauty and crazy weather. The race featured a 20K, a 50K and a 50 miler. The Austin group included Matt Harrington, Rick Gastelum, Cilla McMillen, Brice Remaley, and me signed up for the 50 miler; Robert Heynen, Diana Heynen, Lennie Winkelman, Kyle Cottington and honorary Austinite (and mostly Houstonian), Linda Hurd signed up for the 50K and Michelle Harper, Sara Heilman (Matt's girlfriend), Karla Staha (Sara's friend) and Sid Subramanian (Cilla's husband) signed up for the 20K.

After leaving Austin on Friday morning and driving 8 ½ hours, four of us (Kyle, Brice, Michelle and I) went straight to the Park. None of us had been there before, much less run the race. The place is stunning. Set in the level flatlands of the Panhandle, PD Canyon almost magically appears as a huge hole in the ground. The multi-colored (but predominantly red) strata of rock in the canyon walls are an incredible sight. We drove down into the canyon about four miles and arrived near the first water crossing which was to be the start/finish. We spotted Robert and Diana Heynen coming down the trail. They had arrived about an hour earlier and had gone on a short run to check out the terrain and the trail. Almost immediately thereafter a big black Suburban pulled up. As we stood around chatting, an affable old man hopped out of the truck exclaimed "You all have to be a bunch of runners!" We all professed our guilt and introduced ourselves to Red Spicer, the long-time director of the PD 50. Red gave us the latest word on the race. Apparently some vandals had gone out and pulled down the pink ribbon trail markers during the night and they were out there at the last minute putting up more markers and signs to mark the trail again. We left Red to his official duties and went to check in at our hotel in Canyon, just south of Amarillo.

Seven of us (the four traveling companions plus Robert (who got to ride in the "bucking bronco" seat) and Diana and Lennie Winkelman) headed for the pre-race meal and packet pick-up at the Party Barn in Amarillo. The place was jammed with runners. After we all chowed down on spaghetti, breadsticks and salad, Bill Ross, the co-race director reviewed the course changes and rules. Right after Bill explained the difference between the 50 K course and the 50 mile course and how the 50K course required a 10K loop first, a hand shot up from the back of the room. "So do we do the top loop first?" asked Kyle "Ultra Marathon Mastodon" Cottington. Kyle was determined not to get lost at this race.

We went back to the hotel and made final preparations. Following Joe P.'s sage advice, I had packed my drop bag on Thursday before leaving with clothing and equipment for every imaginable scenario. I had stuffed the items into separate ziploc bags for waterproofing and tried to put them in categories: cold weather (tights, gloves headgear), wet weather (jacket, hat), complete change of warm weather running gear, warm and dry street clothes (there was a hot water shower at the finish), medical (duct tape, bandaids, vaseline etc). I had also brought trash bags to stick my drop bag in to keep it dry. Brice had a drop bag that was big enough to stow a body in. He had two water bottle belts, twelve water bottles, a camelback, two of every type of clothing, shoes, hats, face masks (2) and a kitchen sink. After a brief consultation he did decide to leave a couple of things in the room. After his experience at Rocky Hill earlier this year, Kyle was determined not to run out of water. He brought his big camelback and took a hand bottle as well.

By morning the forecast was rain in the morning with a chance of storms around noon with winds shifting to the north-northeast at 15-25 mph with a 60% chance of rain and still a high of 56. When we went outside in the morning at 5:45 a.m., it had already rained and was briskly cool. We loaded our massive drop bags and joined the long caravan of cars descending into the canyon. When we got to the canyon floor, the sky overhead was clear, but lightning was flashing all along the horizon. Although there was a designated area for drop bags, the threat of rain persuaded us to simply use the van as a dry drop area. I decided to wear a tank top, shorts and my Tyvek SunMart jacket to start the race. It looked too much like rain not to have some coverage and the wind concerned me. At the last minute I slipped my good polypropylene running gloves into the pocket of my jacket and was later glad that I did.

The sound of bagpipes filled the air as everyone queued up for the start. All runners (20K, 50K and 50 miles) started at the same time and place. We began in the dark with our flashlights as the record turnout made for a long slow walk on the 1st mile. At the 1 mile marker, we exited off the trail and onto the road briefly at the second water crossing. The first aid station was located just past this area which was also the split off of the 50K course. So by the 2nd or 3rd mile things were much less crowded and Brice and I found a decent pace together. We clipped along the first part of the course which had a fairly soft surface and ran along the "river" of the canyon. Much of the first part of the trail was flush against the side of a cliff face and we had to wait for the right moment to pass slower runners. After that we ran through juniper and mesquite woods. After mile 4 things opened up again and we soon caught up with Rick G. Fresh off his successful 100 miler at Arkansas, Rick was a model of steady pace as he moved up and down the rolling terrain. Whoever told us that this was a FLAT course was seriously mistaken. The course was changed this year so that might explain part of it. After leaving the soft creek bottom, the surface of red clay was packed and hard.

The first loop of 12.5 miles provided a microcosm of the changeable weather of PD. It started overcast and cool. Then it began to drizzle lightly. Then it began to really rain. At the peak of the rain, the sun came blasting through the clouds and a huge double rainbow spanned across the canyon. The rainbow persisted for some time which was a distraction from keeping an eye on the trail. The wind began to blow and I zipped up my jacket as we entered the second part of the loop. The back half of the loop had quite a few nice downhill sections and several short steep climbs. Brice and I finished the first loop in about 2:20 at an 11 minute per mile pace. Not bad considering the first mile took probably 18-20 minutes walking with the masses. My goal was to run the 50 miles in 10 hours which would be a 12 minute pace. I figured at that point that we were pretty well on track, knowing that the loops would probably get slower. I was certainly right about that!

We refueled at the van and started out on the second loop. By mile 3 of the second loop (mile 15.5 overall), my right quadricep had a sensation like the beginning of a cramp. By mile 5 of that loop, my quad had slowed me to a shuffling pace. I downed as much Gatorade as I could at the aid stations and took e-caps and waited for it to get better. It didn't. Brice gamely hung back with me and, correctly, gave me the "peaks and valleys" speech. I was perilously close to calling it quits for the day halfway through that second loop. Brice was obviously feeling pretty good and I told him that "my valleys shouldn't be your valleys." Reluctantly he went ahead and left me to get it together. I kept walking and thinking about all the training that I had done. How could I be cramping so soon? At mile 7 I was able to run again and made up some time on the hilly back portion of the loop. I caught up with Brice at the van as he was finishing his refueling pit stop. I had to stop and duct tape a couple of toes that were starting to blister, so even though he offered to wait for me, I told him to go on.

I had still managed to run the second loop in 2:40 so I was still on pace for a 10 hour finish. The weather had held out nicely on the second loop. No rain and a fair amount of sun. But there were dark clouds on the horizon so I grabbed my long sleeve capilene shirt and put it on. I tied the Sunmart jacket to my waist and headed out for another loop. Matt had sailed by as I stood at the van. He was FINISHING his 3rd loop and was headed for the last round. I shuffled off on the third loop and began to struggle again almost immediately. My right quad began to cramp again and my left IT band began to seize up on me. I ran/walked with Dave from Oklahoma City who was running his first 50 also. A roadrunner bolted across the path in front of us and then waited in the bushes for us to pass. By mile 3 I was walking again and said goodbye to Dave as he left me after the aid station. I ran the downhills when I could, but mostly I walked until mile 8 or 9 (33-34 overall). I started limping along again at what could most generously be described as a stumbling trot. I was actually able to run the downhills on the back hilly portion again. I made it back to the van again for a final refuel. It had taken me 2:48 for the third loop, a 13:45 per mile pace. I was now well off my goal pace, but I was pleased that I had been able to complete the loop at all.

Because of the unexpected number of entries, the aid stations began to run out of Coke, Gatorade and potatoes on my third loop. I topped off my water bottle with undiluted Gatorade at the van. I was sick of PBJs and the other trail food so I grabbed a 16 ounce bottle of Coke out of my ice chest and a can of Ensure and started walking down the hill toward the beginning of the last loop. After the last pit stop, I figured I had 3:35 to walk the last loop and still safely make the 12 hour time limit. Lennie W. walked with me for the first couple of hundred yards to make sure I was okay and to encourage me to continue (Thanks again, Lennie). I figured if I could walk at a 15:00/mile pace that I could make it with time to spare. As I walked the first mile, a gray fox dashed across the path about 30 yards in front of me. (The canyon is a haven for wildlife. On the second loop a covey of 30 quail exploded out of the bushes next to me as I rounded a turn and I nearly fell off the trail I was so startled.) Fortunately the fox didn't think I looked meaty enough to wait for me to drop and he kept running. I sipped on my Coke until the first aid station. They were out of everything to drink except water. You hit this aid station again after another 5 miles so I asked the woman if she would keep my Coke for me until I came around again. I found out later that she had been offered quite a bit for that Coke by other runners. I trudged on trying to "run" the downhills when I could. It more resembled falling forward more than really running. I staggered along and walked consistently to maintain the 15:00/mile pace to the next aid station which was the first time I saw another runner on the last loop (mile 4 of the loop, mile 41 overall). After a food stop at the aid station and a detour into the bushes to remedy a chafing problem, I was off again, but behind schedule. When I ran the downhills, I would try not to slow down too much and let the momentum keep me going so that when I walked it was not too terribly slow. The uphills were a problem. My right calf was starting to cramp and it was getting more and more difficult to push off with my right foot. I would stop at the top of each downhill, catch my breath and admire the beauty of the canyon. The PD 50 course had mile markers which are pretty accurate. I would check each one against my watch to see if my pace was still good. I was taking this loop one mile at a time. I made it back to the next-to-the-last aid station and claimed my partial Coke. This was at about mile 7.5 on the loop (45 overall). It was 2+ miles to the next aid station so I sauntered off down the trail. The clouds were starting to gather again in the West and the sun was starting to sink down toward the top of the cliff walls. This section had a lot of uphill parts. I kept my head down so I wouldn't see the length of the hill and kept walking. The last aid station on the course is a famous one. Dos Locos Senoritas is its name and you can guess why it is so labeled. The two women who worked this station were there all day long and were as bubbly and cheery as could be. As I was about to leave, Cilla McMillen rounded the corner to do the out and back. "I'll be walking so you will probably catch up with me." I said. "I'll be walking, too." she replied as she headed out. I stuffed some M&Ms inside my right glove and strode on. I reached the 10 mile marker at the top of a pretty lengthy section of downhill. I caught my breath; looked behind for Cilla and then stumbled down the hill. Somehow I was able to run down the hill as the wind began to grow cooler. I kept running the downhills until the trail began to climb. By now I simply couldn't run any more. I plodded up the hills until I finally came to the 12 mile marker. I stopped and checked my watch, it was almost 6:30. Although I had felt confident at the beginning of the loop, I knew now that I really would make it. I walked saving what little muscle I had left for the last 1/10 mile. I made it to the parking lot and headed down the steep set of steps in the trees that led to the finish area. As I came out of the trees, I heard a thunderous cheer of "Alright! There he is! Go Henry!" Our HCTR crew was all finished and waiting there to cheer me on. It was so GREAT! I high-fived Lennie and Kyle (I think) as I chugged toward the banner. "Number 18, Number 18" I yelled my bib number to the race officials who were also clapping and cheering. The long line of people cheering along the finish at the Motorola Marathon never sounded as good as those dozen or so hardy souls. There were hugs and handshakes all around. Less than a minute later, Cilla comes running in and we all let out another big cheer. She wagged a finger at me and said "You said you were going to walk!" All I could do was shrug and smile. Truth was I had walked most of it, but I just couldn't pass up the downhills. It wasn't long at all before Rick G. came in to finish within the 12 hours. Brice had already come in at a fabulous 10:14 and Matt had indeed won the whole thing with a course record of 6:56! WOW!

We packed up and headed for the van. After cleaning up we headed for the post-race meal and awards presentation. HCTR ruled the PD 50 this year. Matt (6:56) won the 50 miler; Cilla McMillen (11:35) finished 3rd female in the 50 miler and Linda Hurd (6:05) finished 3rd in the 50K! Diana Heynen finished fifth among females in the 50K with a 6:25. Kyle nailed a 7:00 in the 50K and Robert H. came in at 7:34. Michelle Harper ran a 2:26 in the 20K and Sara Heilman, Karla Staha and Sid Subramanian all finished the 20K. The results are posted at www.hillcountrytrailrunners.com

It was the worst race I have ever run. I have never had to walk that much or so soon on any run. That was the slowest race I ever did from a per mile pace standpoint (13:53/mile). But it was the best race I ever ran. Despite quad cramps, IT pain, calf cramps and three big blisters, I found a way to keep going and finish. My goal of doing the 50 in 10 hours was gone soon after I started the fourth loop. But I didn't quit despite my ardent desire to do so on the second and third loops. But I remembered what Joe told me----No excuses. Did I have a bone sticking out through the skin of my leg? Nope. Was I able to see straight and keep from falling down? Yep. Then I had to keep going-No excuses. It really is an endurance race. For me it was all about finding a way to continue when my legs screamed at me to quit. With all the training that I did, leg cramps were the last thing that I would have expected to be a problem. But I had learned in training with Joe and Joyce at Bastrop on a 33 miler and with Brice on a 41 miler that I could have leg cramps and still keep going. I KNEW that I could walk and would be able to run again, if only a few minutes at a time. So that's what I did....until I couldn't run any more. then I just walked and walked and walked. So for me it was the best of races and the worst of races. I learned a lot. I also learned that I had some great companions for the trip and some excellent, supportive friends. (This is where it gets mushy.)

So a word or two of "thanks" to all of those folks who got me through this little venture. To Debra Saleny for getting me on this path after my first year in Austin Fit. Debra suggested trail running in a speech about what to do after a marathon. She mentioned Rocky Hill Ranch and I was soon hooked. To Teresa Ritter and her magic hands at the Body Therapy Center for keeping my muscles limber enough to survive the stress I put on them. To Robert and Diana who were ALWAYS ready for a Sunday run at Bastrop State Park (or anywhere else for that matter). To Kyle Cottington who has been with me at every single marathon and ultra race I have run. Thanks for your support and good humor, big guy. To Dinty Moore for your support and friendship.....and those training runs this summer and last year. To Brice for your support not only during the race, but in our training. I could count on you for the long one, buddy. To Michelle Harper for being there at the end of each loop and helping us get ready to go each time....and for driving the WHOLE WAY BACK while the guys moaned and whined. To Matt for all the training runs, the emails and the inspiration and encouragement. To Lennie W. for being a great roommate and checking on me on that last loop. I needed the encouragement and you gave it. To Joe and Joyce who let me train with them all summer. You were so patient to let me bug you with my ceaseless questions about what to do and how to do it. I needed every bit of that knowledge and encouragement to finish the race. You are great friends. Finally to my wife, Kathryn who has put up with me getting up early nearly every weekend morning to go run for hours on end; who has listened to me whine when I was hurt or discouraged and still loves me. Thanks, darlin'.

Henry Hobbs 10/22/02